Oysters are one of the few crops that are hard to overfarm—and they come with a bevy of ecological benefits.

You know who had a weirdly great 2020? “Oysters,” Rachel Dean told me. Oysters grew fatter and faster than expected last year, and diners frequently weren’t around to eat them.

Rachel and her husband, Simon, are harvesters (known as “watermen”) in the Chesapeake Bay. “We’ve had a great wild fishery this year, it’s been really robust; it was last year, as well,” she said. “We can’t sell everything we’re catching all the time.” Read more at The New Republic.